Nowadays everyone likes to label themselves according to things that interests them. Do you like to eat? You’re a foodie! Like to work out at the gym? You’re a gym rat! While I am interested in many things such as travel and photography, I realized I also have a special interest in Chinatowns. Since everyone is some type of an enthusiast, I must be a Chinatown enthusiast!
Growing up in San Francisco’s Chinatown, I’ve always been curious about other Chinatowns around the world. How do they look like? What type of Chinese people live there? What is the history behind their Chinatown? I have so many questions, but the only way to answer those curiosities is to visit them. When this world was hit with the COVID-19 pandemic, I realized I will not be able to travel abroad for a while. Since navigating within California was still doable, I decided to search and visit all the different Chinatowns scattered across California.
San Francisco
Established in 1848, San Francisco’s Chinatown is the oldest Chinatown in Northern America. San Francisco served as the port of entry for the early Chinese from the Canton region who came to the US in search of the “Golden Mountain” during the California Gold Rush. Although faced with many obstacles such as discrimination, exclusion, and the 1906 earthquake, the resilient Chinatown managed to survive, and remains one of the largest active Chinese communities outside of China today.
Oakland
Right across the bay from San Francisco, Oakland’s Chinatown also served as an important area for the early Chinese settlers. After the 1906 earthquake destroyed San Francisco’s Chinatown, many of San Francisco’s Chinatown residents found refuge in Oakland’s Chinatown. While not as large and touristy as San Francisco, Oakland’s Chinatown is still home to a lively Chinese community.
Sacramento
Also known as “Yee Fow” (Second City, behind San Francisco), Sacramento’s Chinatown became a thriving riverport during the gold rush as it served both the local community and optimistic gold miners heading towards the northern gold mines. The Anti-Chinese sentiment was not as rampant here as compared to San Francisco, which helped the Chinese assimilate into other areas in Sacramento. Although there is still a Chinatown in Sacramento, there are only a few buildings left, and the area often feels deserted.
Stockton
Once known as “Sam Fow” (Third City, behind San Francisco and Sacramento), Stockton’s Chinatown was once a prominent Chinese community that served as the gateway to the southern gold mines such as Sonora and Chinese Camp. The construction of the crosstown freeway which began in 1969 was built in the heart of Chinatown, which devastated the Chinese community as many businesses were forced to relocate or close. Although there are still a handful of Chinese buildings today, it is no longer a vibrant Chinese community as the Chinese have assimilated elsewhere, and parts of Chinatown have been overtaken by drugs and homelessness.
Marysville
Also known as “Sam Fow” (like Stockton), Marysville’s Chinatown served as the gateway to the northern gold mines such as Grass Valley and Colfax. The location of Marysville, situated on the fork of the Feather and Yuba River, made it convenient for early gold miners to reach as they can simply hop on a boat in San Francisco and sail up the Sacramento River, into the Feather River. Marysville’s Chinatown also served as a safe haven for Chinese refugees from nearby Chinatowns in Oroville and Chico, which were heavily discriminated against early on. Although the Chinatown is no longer as lively as it once was, tradition Chinese holidays such as the Chinese New Year and Bomb Day are still celebrated annually here. Marysville is also home of the Bok Kai Temple, one of the oldest Chinese temples in the US.
Sacramento Delta — Locke/Walnut Grove/Isleton
The Sacramento Delta region used to be a piece of wasteland that flooded constantly, until the Chinese were hired to build levees and reclaimed the land. Several Chinatowns were built along the delta to house the remaining Chinese that worked on agriculture. Locke eventually became the center of the community after the other Chinatowns were destroyed by fire. While Isleton and Walnut Grove still have remnants of old Chinatowns (Japantown as well), Locke has been designated as a National Historic Landmark District, featuring several museums to showcase its unique identity as a historic Chinese American rural community.
Mendocino
The Chinatown was established after one of the Chinese junks (classic Chinese sailing vessel) that was headed for San Francisco got lost at sea and ended up landing in Mendocino. Instead of moving south to San Francisco, the Chinese found jobs in the area as cooks, housekeep, general labor, and lumber work. Although Mendocino’s Chinatown no longer exists, the only remaining joss house on the northern California coast, the Kwan Tai Temple, is still used as a house of worship and a place to learn about the Chinese American History in the area.
Salinas
Salinas’ Chinatown was at one point the largest Chinatown between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Many Chinese were hired to work on the fields in the Salinas Valley as they were very knowledgeable with agriculture and saw the potentials of what the fields can produce. Although there are a few Chinese buildings remaining, Salinas’ Chinatown has unfortunately been completely overtaken by homelessness and drugs.
Fresno
Aside from gold mining, the Chinese were also known for their contributions in constructing the first transcontinental railroad in the US. The railways extended from Sacramento to Southern California, and the Chinese settled in different stations along the way such as Fresno and Visalia. Fresno’s Chinatown had an underground tunnel system that served as protection from discrimination and housed illegal businesses such as brothels and gambling dens. Chinatown lost both business and residents due to the urban renewal in the 1960s and is now a seemingly desolate area also consumed by homelessness and drugs.
Hanford
West of Fresno and Visalia, Hanford’s Chinese was also established due to the railroad extension into the San Joaquin Valley. Aside from railroad construction, the Chinese in Hanford also worked in agriculture as well. A part of Chinatown, known as China Alley, still exist today, featuring several businesses, old Chinatown buildings, and a Taoist Temple.
Fiddletown
Fiddletown features a small Chinatown that once sat on the hills of Amador County, established because the Chinese were seeking for gold in the area. Although there are no Chinese living there now, the Chew Kee herb shop has been transformed into a museum, accompanied by an old general store and gambling hall.
Los Angeles
The 2nd largest active Chinatown in California, Los Angeles’ Chinatown was established when Chinese railroad workers settled in the area. The Chinese also assisted in building the city from ground up, as Los Angeles was barely a city when the Chinese arrived. The original Chinatown was destroyed due to city development plans, and a new Chinatown has been established north of the original location in the 1930s. Chinatown today is home to a vibrant Chinese community, featuring Chinese businesses and temples which caters to both locals and tourists.
San Diego
San Diego’s Chinatown was established after Chinese abalone fishermen settled in the area in the 1860s. Chinatown was located by San Diego’s red-light district, and featured brothels, opium dens, and gambling halls. The Chinese eventually moved to other areas of San Diego after the repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1943, which banned the Chinese from becoming citizens and owning property. While only a few old Chinese buildings still stand in the area now known as the Chinese Historic District, the most notable point of interest is the San Diego Chinese Historical Museum.
Colusa
With its proximity to Marysville, Colusa was once home to a Chinatown where Chinese goldminers and railroad workers lived. The most notable history of Colusa’s Chinatown was the lynching of Hong Di, where Hong was hung by a mob after being convicted of murdering his employer.
Oroville
The Chinese settled in Oroville in hopes of striking it rich in the northern gold mines. While Chinatown had been decimated by racial discrimination and floods, many of the Chinese were able to seek refuge in nearby Marysville. There are still remnants of Chinatown, with the main feature being the Oroville Chinese Temple which is used as both a place of worship and a museum.
San Luis Obispo
The Chinese were hired to construct the railroad in this region, which enabled San Luis Obispo’s agricultural areas to send their products worldwide via port Hanford (now Port San Luis). Aside from railroad construction, the Chinese also opened businesses to serve the local community. While there are hardly any remnants left from Chinatown, the Ah Louis Store still stands as a reminder of Chinese history in the area.
China Camp State Park
Not exactly a “Chinatown”, but there were numerous Chinese shrimp-fishing villages in the San Pablo Bay Area. The Chinese were first hired as general laborers who worked in the local quarry and brickyard. Their knowledge and experience with shrimping enabled them to supplement their incomes by catching and exporting shrimp. Due to new restrictions that limited shrimp harvesting, the Chinese eventually moved out of the area in search of other opportunities.
Chinese Camp
Also not exactly a “Chinatown”, Chinese Camp (formerly known as Camp Washington) was a gold mining town that housed approximately 5000 Chinese miners at its peak. The camp eventually died out after the gold mines in the area were depleted. Although Chinese Camp is now known as a “haunted ghost town”, it is still home to several residents, although none are of Asian descent.
The Journey Doesn’t Stop!
I thoroughly enjoyed visiting each Chinatown, learning about its histories and seeing the old remnants. It was as if I was traveling in the present, into the past, for the future. Although my curiosity and enthusiasm has brought me to all these Chinatowns so far, my journey does not end here. There are still Joss Houses in Weaverville and Auburn I’d like to visit, and other old remnants hidden throughout the state. Once the pandemic is over, hopefully I’ll have to the opportunity to visit Chinatowns in other states and other countries as well!!
I briefly touched on each Chinatown as I did not want this to be too long. While all the Chinatowns shared similar experiences with work, discrimination, and exclusion, they each have their own unique identities and history. Many Chinatowns in California have completely vanished (such as San Jose), but there may be a few that are still hidden. If you happen to know any information about other Chinatowns, please let this Chinatown enthusiast know!!
*I would like to thank everyone who helped me on my journey. There are many other Chinatown enthusiasts who informed me of old Chinatown locations and old Chinatown remnants that I would have never been able to find on my own. I’ve also met many interesting folks during the journey, such as Lorraine Hee Chorley, the direct descendant of the first Mendocino Chinese settlers who is also the Kwan Tai Temple’s docent. I’ve also had the privilege to meet a few local residents who shared a quick chat, a social interaction that is greatly missed due to the pandemic. Lastly, I would like to thank Google Maps & Google Street View in helping me with verify the locations of these Chinatowns.